From time to time my Pi 4 running
Linux raspberrypi 6.1.21-v8+ #1642 SMP PREEMPT
Mon Apr 3 17:24:16 BST 2023 aarch64 GNU/Linux
crashes when a USB device is plugged into it.
The Pi4 boots from a usb3 mechanical disk.
From time to time my Pi 4 running
Linux raspberrypi 6.1.21-v8+ #1642 SMP PREEMPT
Mon Apr 3 17:24:16 BST 2023 aarch64 GNU/Linux
crashes when a USB device is plugged into it.
The Pi4 boots from a usb3 mechanical disk.
Usually the culprit
is a storage device, but an FT232-based usb-serial adapter did it
also. The first symptom is an unresponsive menu bar and report about
I/O error on the command line. The palsy grows over a few minutes
as the mouse stops tracking. By that time there's nothing to do
but cycle power.
From time to time my Pi 4 running
Linux raspberrypi 6.1.21-v8+ #1642 SMP PREEMPT
Mon Apr 3 17:24:16 BST 2023 aarch64 GNU/Linux
crashes when a USB device is plugged into it.
The Pi4 boots from a usb3 mechanical disk.
What does:
sudo dmesg
say immediately after you plug it in? You can print the last 30 lines with:
sudo dmesg | tail -30
It seems like the USB serial adapter wedges the USB subsystem, which is problematic given your root filesystem is also on USB storage. The storage stops responding, and over time programs get increasingly unhappy that their storage is not functioning.
Another thing to try is to plug the serial adapter into a USB2 port, which
is a different controller on the Pi4 from the USB storage. Maybe that won't break the storage?
On 2024-01-07, bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net> wrote:
From time to time my Pi 4 running
Linux raspberrypi 6.1.21-v8+ #1642 SMP PREEMPT
Mon Apr 3 17:24:16 BST 2023 aarch64 GNU/Linux
crashes when a USB device is plugged into it.
The Pi4 boots from a usb3 mechanical disk.
The operation of the fan tends to build up a static charge throughout
the case's environment. When a USB device is plugged in, there is often
a brief static discharge, which can have an undesirable effect on the
Pi. I might get a screen glitch or a hang or a crash or a reboot,
I alleviate this problem by using an old unpowered Radio Shack USB hub.
This minimizes static buildup, and keeps any potential discharge some distance from the Pi's circuit board.
crashes when a USB device is plugged into it.[snip]
The Pi4 boots from a usb3 mechanical disk.
Usually the culprit
is a storage device, but an FT232-based usb-serial adapter did it
also. The first symptom is an unresponsive menu bar and report about
I/O error on the command line. The palsy grows over a few minutes
as the mouse stops tracking. By that time there's nothing to do
but cycle power.
This behavior is relatively new, sometime in the last six months
or so. I don't remember it in the distant past. If I plug in a
camera it's recognized without difficulty.
Anybody else seen this sort of behavior or have a hint what to do?
On 2024-01-07, bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net> wrote:
From time to time my Pi 4 running
Linux raspberrypi 6.1.21-v8+ #1642 SMP PREEMPT
Mon Apr 3 17:24:16 BST 2023 aarch64 GNU/Linux
crashes when a USB device is plugged into it.
The Pi4 boots from a usb3 mechanical disk.
What I am about to describe may be an unrelated phenomenon:
I run a Pi4b in the Official Case with the Official Fan. [I don't
recommend that fan to anyone. It does not get much airflow unless the
case is propped open.]
The operation of the fan tends to build up a static charge throughout
the case's environment. When a USB device is plugged in, there is often
a brief static discharge, which can have an undesirable effect on the
Pi. I might get a screen glitch or a hang or a crash or a reboot,
I alleviate this problem by using an old unpowered Radio Shack USB hub.
This minimizes static buildup, and keeps any potential discharge some distance from the Pi's circuit board.
Buy a pack of bubble-gum ... the foil/paper wrapper for
each stick can be teased into its component parts. The
ultra-thin foil is slightly sticky.
Buy a pack of bubble-gum ... the foil/paper wrapper for
each stick can be teased into its component parts. The
ultra-thin foil is slightly sticky. Stick it all over the
inside of the case (we used to stick 'em to school desks
back in the day) by rubbing it on with a bit of hard wood
or something of similar characteristics. A pencil worked
for the school desks.
Weave in a fine wire that touches both the ground plane
of the Pi and the foil in the case. Doesn't have to be a
super-good soldered connection.
If you use WiFi then maybe leave the upper 1/3rd of the
case un-foiled around where the WiFi antenna thingie is.
An all-metal case would work for the static, but will
block a lot of the WiFi signal.
This should safely drain-off static charge.
Oh yea, Pi-compatible fans ... they mostly ARE crap.
Apparently you live in a VERY dry area - always a prob
for electronics. Hell, lived in a US western town high
in the mountains for awhile. In the winter you could
easily draw a 4-inch spark off a door-knob just by
walking across a carpet first. Guess that's about a
200,000 volts or so. Actually HURT ! You learned to
lead with a knuckle ....
On 2024-01-09, 57r.1283 <57r.1283@etq5.net> wrote:
Apparently you live in a VERY dry area - always a prob
for electronics. Hell, lived in a US western town high
in the mountains for awhile. In the winter you could
easily draw a 4-inch spark off a door-knob just by
walking across a carpet first. Guess that's about a
200,000 volts or so. Actually HURT ! You learned to
lead with a knuckle ....
I would tightly grip a key and draw the spark off it.
On 09/01/2024 04:03, 57r.1283 wrote:
Buy a pack of bubble-gum ... the foil/paper wrapper for
each stick can be teased into its component parts. The
ultra-thin foil is slightly sticky. Stick it all over the
inside of the case (we used to stick 'em to school desks
back in the day) by rubbing it on with a bit of hard wood
or something of similar characteristics. A pencil worked
for the school desks.
Weave in a fine wire that touches both the ground plane
of the Pi and the foil in the case. Doesn't have to be a
super-good soldered connection.
If you use WiFi then maybe leave the upper 1/3rd of the
case un-foiled around where the WiFi antenna thingie is.
An all-metal case would work for the static, but will
block a lot of the WiFi signal.
This should safely drain-off static charge.
You can buy adhesive backed copper foil, made for sheilding electric
guitars and similar quite cheaply - and its a cinch to solder to it to
earth it
On Mon, 8 Jan 2024 23:03:28 -0500
"57r.1283" <57r.1283@etq5.net> wrote:
Buy a pack of bubble-gum ... the foil/paper wrapper for
each stick can be teased into its component parts. The
ultra-thin foil is slightly sticky.
Alternatively buy a roll of copper or aluminium tape, both are
easily available.
Yep ... but WHERE ?
On 1/9/24 2:07 AM, Ahem A Rivet's Shot wrote:
On Mon, 8 Jan 2024 23:03:28 -0500
Alternatively buy a roll of copper or aluminium tape, both are
easily available.
Aluminum and/or stainless-steel tape is often sold at
automotive parts stores. Not gonna say what the nickname
for it may be. Copper tape ... never seen it in the USA
in retail stores (can be had from electronics suppliers
like Mouser or Digi-Key).
On 2024-01-07, bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net> wrote:
From time to time my Pi 4 running
Linux raspberrypi 6.1.21-v8+ #1642 SMP PREEMPT
Mon Apr 3 17:24:16 BST 2023 aarch64 GNU/Linux
crashes when a USB device is plugged into it.
The Pi4 boots from a usb3 mechanical disk.
So either all USB is blocked, or the USB disk with the root FS stops responding.
This might be a power issue. Mechanical disks pull a lot of power, and unless it is a 1.8" drive this is often more than the 500mA allowed on
USB2.0 ports.
Make sure the power supply for the Pi can handle the (peak) load without voltage drops. Aging power supplies and cables/connectors with bad contact can cause slowly increasing problems.
You might try putting a self-powered USB hub (with its own power supply) between the Pi and the disk and see if that changes anything.
On 1/9/24 4:07 AM, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 09/01/2024 04:03, 57r.1283 wrote:
Buy a pack of bubble-gum ... the foil/paper wrapper for
each stick can be teased into its component parts. The
ultra-thin foil is slightly sticky. Stick it all over the
inside of the case (we used to stick 'em to school desks
back in the day) by rubbing it on with a bit of hard wood
or something of similar characteristics. A pencil worked
for the school desks.
Weave in a fine wire that touches both the ground plane
of the Pi and the foil in the case. Doesn't have to be a
super-good soldered connection.
If you use WiFi then maybe leave the upper 1/3rd of the
case un-foiled around where the WiFi antenna thingie is.
An all-metal case would work for the static, but will
block a lot of the WiFi signal.
This should safely drain-off static charge.
You can buy adhesive backed copper foil, made for sheilding electric
guitars and similar quite cheaply - and its a cinch to solder to it to
earth it
Yep ... but WHERE ? Never seen it on a shelf in the USA.
Is it more common in the UK perhaps ? For what use ?
On Wed, 10 Jan 2024 01:34:17 -0500
"57r.1283" <57r.1283@etq5.net> wrote:
Yep ... but WHERE ?
Amazon (easiest), a good electronics parts retailer (OK they're hens teeth these days) or a good garden centre.
In any case, the OP seems to live in an EXTREMELY
dry environment. Surprised he doesn't lose devices
all the time.
On Wed, 10 Jan 2024 01:29:18 -0500
"57r.1283" <57r.1283@etq5.net> wrote:
On 1/9/24 2:07 AM, Ahem A Rivet's Shot wrote:
On Mon, 8 Jan 2024 23:03:28 -0500
Alternatively buy a roll of copper or aluminium tape, both are
easily available.
Aluminum and/or stainless-steel tape is often sold at
Aluminium tape is sold in builder's merchants for taping insulation boards for air tightness (I used several rolls of it insulating my house),
it also sometimes gets used to seal air duct joins.
automotive parts stores. Not gonna say what the nickname
for it may be. Copper tape ... never seen it in the USA
in retail stores (can be had from electronics suppliers
like Mouser or Digi-Key).
It can sometimes be found in garden centres as gardeners use it for slug/snail repellent, it is also used for making stained glass and
repairing electrical toys like Scalextric track. Copper tape comes in a very wide variety of widths unlike aluminium tape, I have 6mm, 10mm and 50mm
rolls to hand.
On 2024-01-10 07:29, 57r.1283 wrote:
In any case, the OP seems to live in an EXTREMELY
dry environment. Surprised he doesn't lose devices
all the time.
A cold winter day makes much spark here. (Sweden)
Like -10C or below
Fabric softener helps, but below some temperatures, even that does not
do much to help.
Aluminium foil sticky tape is used to vapour seal foil covered
insulation so a builders merchant will stock it
You can sometime also find stainless steel tape in the form of
automotive trim and MacGuyver rust-out repair material. If all else
fails, automotive customizers can be a good place to get things that can
be adapted for other uses.
On 1/28/24 8:41 AM, Bryan wrote:
Aluminium foil sticky tape is used to vapour seal foil covered
insulation so a builders merchant will stock it
You can sometime also find stainless steel tape in the form of
automotive trim and MacGuyver rust-out repair material. If all else
fails, automotive customizers can be a good place to get things that
can be adapted for other uses.
SS tape has one extra advantage, as it does not form a
thick surface oxidation layer like aluminum you can
employ 'friction contacts' more effectively, eliminating
the need for hard soldered connections. This should serve
for RF shielding.
BUT, you can get copper tape from Mouser or DigiKey or
Amazon - so ...
On 1/28/2024 23:05, 68g.1499 wrote:
On 1/28/24 8:41 AM, Bryan wrote:
Aluminium foil sticky tape is used to vapour seal foil covered
insulation so a builders merchant will stock it
You can sometime also find stainless steel tape in the form of
automotive trim and MacGuyver rust-out repair material. If all else
fails, automotive customizers can be a good place to get things that
can be adapted for other uses.
SS tape has one extra advantage, as it does not form a
thick surface oxidation layer like aluminum you can
employ 'friction contacts' more effectively, eliminating
the need for hard soldered connections. This should serve
for RF shielding.
BUT, you can get copper tape from Mouser or DigiKey or
Amazon - so ...
Yes. I'd rather use copper. But when you need it right now because SHTF,
it's nice to have options.
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